MG-Rover Club Nederland

How to Replace the Alternator on a 2002 Rover 75 CDT 2 litre

Firstly I consulted the Haynes Manual and that told me to remove the Radiator and drain the water and disconnect the AC. This seemed very long winded and would add more expense so I have devised my own way of doing it. It took alot of thinking about but it works and is not very complicated just fiddly at times. I did everything from underneath the car which had the front on axle stands and bricks under the rear wheels.

Procedure

Loosen the wheel nuts on the drivers side (UK cars).
Jack up the front of the car and place safely on stands with bricks or something under the rear wheels and handbrake hard on.
Disconnet the battery Negative and move wire away.
Remove front wheel and the engine tray if you still have it.
Remove the plastic wheel arch liner being careful when disconnecting the ABS and Brake pad sensors. One scrivet behind the main strut was a real pig.
Slacken the AC belt using a 10mm and 22mm socket. I got my wife to buy the 10mm and 22mm sockets which fit properly over the bolt head so as not to round over the edges.
Remove 2 x 8mm bolts on side of engine, 1 x 8mm bolt of front of engine and the rubber covered bracket (13mm nut and bolt) to allow the Black Coolent Pipe that runs across the car between the radiator and the sump to be moved carefully back under the sump so it is out of the way as there is plenty of slack to do that. The 10mm bolt on the front took ages to do up when reassembling as its not very visible.
Remove the 3 x 10mm bolts that hold the AC compressor being careful not to let it drop. One of the bolts is a bit awkward and you MUST put it through the AC Unit first before putting back together as you wont get it in the hole if you have tightened up the other 2 bolts as the chassis gets in the way. You will need to move the AC Compressor from left to right from now on to get at the remaining bolts. Be careful when doing this so as not to damage the Radiator as the AC Compressor is still plummed in and the rubber hoses will move around too.
Remove the AC bracket. There are 3 x 10mm bolts. Easiest bit of all.
The next step is to slacken the Ancillary belt. Words of caution here. Firstly note how the Ancillary belt runs, either check the Haynes manual if you have one or Rave if you have it or just make a diagram of how it goes, its hard to see exactly and it took me ages to work it out. Also, you will need a thick/tuff gardening type glove and a 24mm ring spanner. Put the ring end of the spanner on the tensioner. There isn't alot of room between the tensioner and the chassis but brute force gets it on. Now put the gardening glove on and turn/pull the tensioner anti-clockwise. The glove protects the hand should the spanner fly off as there is a great deal on tension on it and lots of metal around. I didn't wear a glove and I now have butterfly stitches on 2 fingers and they hurt alot (thankfully a neighbour is a trainer first aider). Now with tension applied slip the Ancillary belt off the Alternator.
Unclip the wires from the Alternator, a bit fiddly but my wife had smaller hands and unplugged it for me. Now remove the thick wire from the Alternator, it has a 13mm nut.
Now remove the 3 bolts that hold the Alternator, the 1 on the back is 10mm and the 2 on the front are 13mm, the upper of the 2 on the front must have the bolt pushed through it when putting the new Alternator in as you wont be able to once the 2 other bolts are in and tight as there isn't the room to push the bolt through afterwards thanks to the chassis.
Now carefully drop the Alternator out, gravity is useful occassionally.
You are now ready to put the new Alternator in and the procedure is the reverse of the above.

PLEASE NOTE - when reassembling, put the AC belt on first before the Ancillary belt.

Victor schreef:Je kan hierboven lezen wat t mij kostte:

ps. je had natuurlijk wel door kunnen rijden. het laadstroomlampje is niet rood en je hebt ook niet gelijk je accu leeg.