
Dashboard vervangen
- kilroy
- MG-R Addict
- Berichten: 363
- Lid geworden op: vr jun 03, 2011 5:52 pm
- Woonplaats: Den Haag
- Locatie: Den Haag
Dashboard vervangen
Vandaag voor 40,- het ppd houten dashboard gekocht, nu zegt arjan m wel dat het zo makkelijk is maar ben een beetje huiverig om er zomaar aan te beginnen. Kortom zijn er nog tips of bijvoorbeeld een stap voor stap uitleg eventueel met foto´s?? Ik hoor het graag 

Rover 75 2.5 liter V6 (34-LB-HP)
- arjan_m
- MG-R Core
- Berichten: 3507
- Lid geworden op: ma jul 18, 2005 10:13 am
- Woonplaats: Vlodrop
- Contacteer:
Ok, een handleidingkje dan, weliswaar in het Engels, maar dat moet lukken toch?
Thanks to help and advice on the forum, I decided to tackle this job myself, and, as a very low tech sort of bloke, I thought I'd show some photos to encourage other low tech types to have a go. I'm not claiming that this is the definitive, or best way, just the way that I did it, and it worked....
I was fortunate in that my complete real wooden dash came complete with all air vents, screws and fixing metal lugs in place, so it was a virtual swap with the existing dash. I placed masking tape over the bottoms of the various dash panels that were to be removed, as close to the edge of the visible wood veneer panels and leather of the dash as possible. This prevents any accidental slippage with the tools you use to remove the panels.
Reaching underneath the steering column, release the lever and drop the steering wheel down as low as it will go, allowing more room underneath the main veneered wood panel to be removed.
I opted for a simple large flat edged screwdriver, which I carefully placed bewteen the black dash and lower right edge of the left hand (passenger) air vent panel. I then placed the screwdriver in the lower left corner and the panel was ready to gently and carefully prise out of it's mounting.

With the air vent panel removed, I then moved to the passenger air bag panel, similarly masking the lower edge and using a screwdriver to gently prise out from both bottom corners. The panel lifts out and is retained by the air bag straps. You then need a number 20 torx head to remove the screws securing the black plastic inner tray to the veneered outer airbag cover...

With the torx screws removed, the veneer panel lifts off and the inner black plastic panel connected to the air bag retaining straps can be left in place.....

The photograph below is simply the underside of the veneered airbag cover once the torx screws have been removed...

Moving onto the largest of the panels, which covers the twin centre vents, display console and drivers right hand air vent, I simply applied masking tape to the length of the lower edge and prised open with the flat blade screwdriver carefully from the bottom left hand corner, then the centre, then the far right under the air vent.

Now the fun begins for us technical numpties.....
Pulling the full veneered cover down and out, you need to rest it upon the steering wheel column, as it is held in situ by the wiring plug into the rear of the little central clock, and by the air vent cable into a little wheeled gizmo that you can see underneath the panel.

In the photograph above, I have placed a tiny watchmakers flat blade screwdriver underneath the round donut plastic cable end that sits over the pin that you can see (with wires behind it), thus lifting it out and clear of the housing. I have also used a flat blade screwdriver to prise the retaining mechanism from the housing, leaving behind the hole in the plastic that you can see.
I then reached down behind the panel and gently pulled the clock plug from the back of the clock itself, and now that panel is completely free to be lifted clear and out.. Take your time and be careful as you could easily damage the plastic parts at this point....

I then needed to release the clock unit from the veneered panel, to refit it into the original real wood dash. To do this, I simply used a number 10 torx screwdriver bit to undo the screws holding in the two air vents which keep the clock screw mountings in place....

Once the two air vents are freed up, you can release the clock unit and refit it to your real wood replacement dash. I would suggest taking digital photographs of all of the panel fittings prior to removing any of the torx screws, as it's very easy to forget where they go and the angle that they sit.

The photograph above is simply the clock unit in place in the realwood dash ready for the air vents to be refitted

To refit, I started on the right side with the largest panel. With the panel resting on the steering column, I refitted the clock plug in the rear, then refitted the plastic cable retaining lug in the hole using pressure from a flat blade screwdriver, and then pushed the round plastic donut on the enbd of the cable, over the locating pin. Panel wise, I slotted the left hand end home first and then gently pushed the panel in towards the right side, top edge in first and bottom last. Then I fitted the passenger side left hand air vent which required me to swap the original wood dash auir vent back over to the later styled veneer air vent which has completed different mechanism for opening and closing, and for some reason would not accept the original wood styled vent No problem as it's just a couple of torx screws and the fit of the vent is beautifully flush.....

I fitted the passenger air bag cover last of all. Make sure that the inner black plastic tray connected to the air bag retaining straps, fitrs correctly into the lips of the new panel, do up the torx screws, and push the top edge home first, with the bottom edge snicking into place.
Then simply polish, sit back and admire the deep lustre of that glorious real wood, and wonder why you didn'tfit it earlier..... ha ha
[/img]

I was fortunate in that my complete real wooden dash came complete with all air vents, screws and fixing metal lugs in place, so it was a virtual swap with the existing dash. I placed masking tape over the bottoms of the various dash panels that were to be removed, as close to the edge of the visible wood veneer panels and leather of the dash as possible. This prevents any accidental slippage with the tools you use to remove the panels.
Reaching underneath the steering column, release the lever and drop the steering wheel down as low as it will go, allowing more room underneath the main veneered wood panel to be removed.
I opted for a simple large flat edged screwdriver, which I carefully placed bewteen the black dash and lower right edge of the left hand (passenger) air vent panel. I then placed the screwdriver in the lower left corner and the panel was ready to gently and carefully prise out of it's mounting.

With the air vent panel removed, I then moved to the passenger air bag panel, similarly masking the lower edge and using a screwdriver to gently prise out from both bottom corners. The panel lifts out and is retained by the air bag straps. You then need a number 20 torx head to remove the screws securing the black plastic inner tray to the veneered outer airbag cover...

With the torx screws removed, the veneer panel lifts off and the inner black plastic panel connected to the air bag retaining straps can be left in place.....

The photograph below is simply the underside of the veneered airbag cover once the torx screws have been removed...

Moving onto the largest of the panels, which covers the twin centre vents, display console and drivers right hand air vent, I simply applied masking tape to the length of the lower edge and prised open with the flat blade screwdriver carefully from the bottom left hand corner, then the centre, then the far right under the air vent.

Now the fun begins for us technical numpties.....
Pulling the full veneered cover down and out, you need to rest it upon the steering wheel column, as it is held in situ by the wiring plug into the rear of the little central clock, and by the air vent cable into a little wheeled gizmo that you can see underneath the panel.

In the photograph above, I have placed a tiny watchmakers flat blade screwdriver underneath the round donut plastic cable end that sits over the pin that you can see (with wires behind it), thus lifting it out and clear of the housing. I have also used a flat blade screwdriver to prise the retaining mechanism from the housing, leaving behind the hole in the plastic that you can see.
I then reached down behind the panel and gently pulled the clock plug from the back of the clock itself, and now that panel is completely free to be lifted clear and out.. Take your time and be careful as you could easily damage the plastic parts at this point....

I then needed to release the clock unit from the veneered panel, to refit it into the original real wood dash. To do this, I simply used a number 10 torx screwdriver bit to undo the screws holding in the two air vents which keep the clock screw mountings in place....

Once the two air vents are freed up, you can release the clock unit and refit it to your real wood replacement dash. I would suggest taking digital photographs of all of the panel fittings prior to removing any of the torx screws, as it's very easy to forget where they go and the angle that they sit.

The photograph above is simply the clock unit in place in the realwood dash ready for the air vents to be refitted

To refit, I started on the right side with the largest panel. With the panel resting on the steering column, I refitted the clock plug in the rear, then refitted the plastic cable retaining lug in the hole using pressure from a flat blade screwdriver, and then pushed the round plastic donut on the enbd of the cable, over the locating pin. Panel wise, I slotted the left hand end home first and then gently pushed the panel in towards the right side, top edge in first and bottom last. Then I fitted the passenger side left hand air vent which required me to swap the original wood dash auir vent back over to the later styled veneer air vent which has completed different mechanism for opening and closing, and for some reason would not accept the original wood styled vent No problem as it's just a couple of torx screws and the fit of the vent is beautifully flush.....

I fitted the passenger air bag cover last of all. Make sure that the inner black plastic tray connected to the air bag retaining straps, fitrs correctly into the lips of the new panel, do up the torx screws, and push the top edge home first, with the bottom edge snicking into place.
Then simply polish, sit back and admire the deep lustre of that glorious real wood, and wonder why you didn'tfit it earlier..... ha ha
[/img]
My MG-Rover history:
Rover 75 2.0 CDT Business Edition - bj. 2000 - Midnight Blue (JQW)
Rover 75 Tourer 2.0 CDT Sterling - bj. 2003 - British Racing Green (HFF)
Rover 75 1.8 Classic - bj. 2002 - Midnight Blue (JQW)
MG TF 135 - bj. 2002 - Antracite (LQW)
MG ZT 190 2,5 v6 - bj. 2002 - Raven Black (PMF)
Rover 75 2.0 CDT Business Edition - bj. 2000 - Midnight Blue (JQW)
Rover 75 Tourer 2.0 CDT Sterling - bj. 2003 - British Racing Green (HFF)
Rover 75 1.8 Classic - bj. 2002 - Midnight Blue (JQW)
MG TF 135 - bj. 2002 - Antracite (LQW)
MG ZT 190 2,5 v6 - bj. 2002 - Raven Black (PMF)
- kilroy
- MG-R Addict
- Berichten: 363
- Lid geworden op: vr jun 03, 2011 5:52 pm
- Woonplaats: Den Haag
- Locatie: Den Haag
Dat maakt het een stukje makkelijker waarvoor dank
de houten versnellingspook was al verkocht maar dat word dus de volgende update.
Deze kwam ik ook nog tegen
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s ... post239303

Deze kwam ik ook nog tegen
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s ... post239303
Rover 75 2.5 liter V6 (34-LB-HP)
- kilroy
- MG-R Addict
- Berichten: 363
- Lid geworden op: vr jun 03, 2011 5:52 pm
- Woonplaats: Den Haag
- Locatie: Den Haag
Het dashboard zit erin het viel ons niet tegen maar echt soepel liep het niet maar goed het hoeft natuurlijk ook maar 1 x morgen de auto wassen, poesten en stofzuigen zo is hij klaar voor het tripje naar de UK 
resultaat is hier te zien
http://www.mg-r.nl/club/viewtopic.php?p=318347#318347

resultaat is hier te zien
http://www.mg-r.nl/club/viewtopic.php?p=318347#318347
Rover 75 2.5 liter V6 (34-LB-HP)