Even een vraagje.
Is het makkelijk om elektrische ramen in te bouwen in mijn zr (aangezien ik die nu niet heb)
volgens mij liggen de draden er wel al. liggen draden en 2 stekkers onder het kapje voor de handrem. Volgens de dealer ging het ruim 1000 euro kosten maar dat vind ik veel te veel
iemand hier ervaring mee en een beetje een prijs indicatie?
greetz
Dennis
elektrische ramen inbouwen
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littldevil
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nl_joker_nl
even nieuw leven inblazen..
ik heb inmiddels de raammechanismes van sillie over kunnen nemen
vanmiddag aan de gang proberen te gaan om in te bouwen, nu vraag ik me af hoeveel draden er naar de deurvergrendeling gaan.. anders liggen de draden voor de elektrische ramen dus niet in de deur.. er gaan denk ik wel een stuk of 8 draden richting het einde van de deur maar daar geen losse draden tegen gekomen..
ik heb inmiddels de raammechanismes van sillie over kunnen nemen
vanmiddag aan de gang proberen te gaan om in te bouwen, nu vraag ik me af hoeveel draden er naar de deurvergrendeling gaan.. anders liggen de draden voor de elektrische ramen dus niet in de deur.. er gaan denk ik wel een stuk of 8 draden richting het einde van de deur maar daar geen losse draden tegen gekomen..
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nl_joker_nl
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nl_joker_nl
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nl_joker_nl
Ow het ziet er steeds minder positief uit 
Vandaag even wezen kijken op internet, het schijnt veel meer werk te zijn als vooraf gedacht. heb nog een kastje nodig voor de raambediening en het moet worden geactiveerd in de boordcomputer... Irmand nog tips/ideeen voor de bedrading?
Bestuurders kant heb ik dus totaal 7 draden 1x 5 draden in een stekker en 2 in een andere stekker (stekkers circa halverwege de deur) die beide naar het einde van de deur gaan, kan niet echt zien waarheen maar denk naar de vergrendeling..
Passagierskant lopen totaal maar 4 draden die ook via een stekker midden op de dear naar het einde lopen
Vandaag even wezen kijken op internet, het schijnt veel meer werk te zijn als vooraf gedacht. heb nog een kastje nodig voor de raambediening en het moet worden geactiveerd in de boordcomputer... Irmand nog tips/ideeen voor de bedrading?
Bestuurders kant heb ik dus totaal 7 draden 1x 5 draden in een stekker en 2 in een andere stekker (stekkers circa halverwege de deur) die beide naar het einde van de deur gaan, kan niet echt zien waarheen maar denk naar de vergrendeling..
Passagierskant lopen totaal maar 4 draden die ook via een stekker midden op de dear naar het einde lopen
Heb je dit gelezen?
Fitting Electric Windows – without ECU
You are following this guide at your own risk, i accept no responsibility for errors in your installation or any damages caused.
The safest thing to do before you start is do disconnect the battery.
Removing Windies
Take the door card off, you will see 6 8mm bolts holding the motor and mechanism to the door, and two bolts holding the mechanism to the window glass. Easiest thing to do to get the two bolts off the glass is to wind the window down until it gets close to the bottom so you can see the bolt closest to the cabin through a hole in the door (makes it easy to get a ratchet and extension through). Once these are off, push the window to the top of the door to make things easier. Then undo the 6 bolts holding the motor and mech in. Now its all loose, simply manoeuvre it out of the biggest hole in the door.
Now would be the time to run the two wires from the switch in the cabin into the door, as you have a lot of space to get your arm in, taking the speakers out also helps.
If you have central locking, chances are you ‘ll have the wiring connectors running through that rubber tube between the door and the cabin. If not, use this as a through point for the wires. Otherwise, something i found useful was to pull the rubber seal out slightly, leaving a yellow clip, remove this clip, and you have a nice little hole to run wires through. To get into the cabin, push the rubber bit from the end of the rubber tube out a bit and slip the wires through.
Installing electric motors
Putting these in is simply a reversal of removal. However, two things you should make sure of:
• You know what side each motor goes on
• Whether the motor from the donor car was taken off when the windows were up/down
Bolt everything back into place and your windows should stay sturdy. At this point, i highly recommend pushing the window fully up, just in case. To do this, simply connect the two wires to the positive and negative on the battery to push it up or down.
The Wiring – This is assuming you are not using the window ECU
Assuming you have the wiring block already connected to the switches, there are five wires coming off it, a thick black, thin black, the two for the motor, and a live. Both of the black wires go to a common ground, the live goes to the relay and the two motor ones obviously connect to the wires you’ve just brought into the cabin. Its fairly straight forward matching the wires up. There are several ground points you can use, two or three behind the centre console which are very handy.
The Relay
Pin 30 is the permanent power supply from the battery. Easiest way to get this is by tapping into the engine fusebox on the right side of the engine bay, using an inline 40A fuse, and running it through the big rubber grommet that goes into the cabin, about half way down the engine bay on the right side. If you have run an amplifier into the car, chances are this will be the grommet you’ve used to run the main feed. Run this power wire directly into the relay.
Pin 87 provides the power line to go to the switches. This power wire splits into two wires; one each going directly to the switch power wire, fuses with a 20A fuse on each wire.
Pin 85 goes directly to ground
Pin 86 is the feed from the ignition, so you can only use the windows when the ignition is on. This can easily be connected to the main feed if you wish, using a blade connector or similar, makes no difference, except you are able to use them when the ignition is on or off.
Wiring things through
The switches and all the wires coming off them should run down the centre console, and then lift the carpet up at the back and in the foot wells and run the wires through neatly, possibly taping them to the floor to keep it neat.
Now everything should work. If it doesn’t, either you’ve missed a ground somewhere, or its not grounded properly, or one of the connections has come loose somewhere along the line. Pop the switches into place, tuck all the wires away neatly and bound the group of wires together with tape to tidy things up, mount the relay somewhere (there is supposedly a bracket behind the bonnet pull somewhere, but there wasn’t on mine) and enjoy your new electric windows.
Please note, the wiring is a little different if you want to install the drivers or passengers side ECU for the one touch down function. There is a guide on here by Technozen for installing that into the main wiring.
Lastly, sorry for the lack of pictures but to be honest everything makes sense once you have it in front of you.
Fitting Electric Windows – without ECU
You are following this guide at your own risk, i accept no responsibility for errors in your installation or any damages caused.
The safest thing to do before you start is do disconnect the battery.
Removing Windies
Take the door card off, you will see 6 8mm bolts holding the motor and mechanism to the door, and two bolts holding the mechanism to the window glass. Easiest thing to do to get the two bolts off the glass is to wind the window down until it gets close to the bottom so you can see the bolt closest to the cabin through a hole in the door (makes it easy to get a ratchet and extension through). Once these are off, push the window to the top of the door to make things easier. Then undo the 6 bolts holding the motor and mech in. Now its all loose, simply manoeuvre it out of the biggest hole in the door.
Now would be the time to run the two wires from the switch in the cabin into the door, as you have a lot of space to get your arm in, taking the speakers out also helps.
If you have central locking, chances are you ‘ll have the wiring connectors running through that rubber tube between the door and the cabin. If not, use this as a through point for the wires. Otherwise, something i found useful was to pull the rubber seal out slightly, leaving a yellow clip, remove this clip, and you have a nice little hole to run wires through. To get into the cabin, push the rubber bit from the end of the rubber tube out a bit and slip the wires through.
Installing electric motors
Putting these in is simply a reversal of removal. However, two things you should make sure of:
• You know what side each motor goes on
• Whether the motor from the donor car was taken off when the windows were up/down
Bolt everything back into place and your windows should stay sturdy. At this point, i highly recommend pushing the window fully up, just in case. To do this, simply connect the two wires to the positive and negative on the battery to push it up or down.
The Wiring – This is assuming you are not using the window ECU
Assuming you have the wiring block already connected to the switches, there are five wires coming off it, a thick black, thin black, the two for the motor, and a live. Both of the black wires go to a common ground, the live goes to the relay and the two motor ones obviously connect to the wires you’ve just brought into the cabin. Its fairly straight forward matching the wires up. There are several ground points you can use, two or three behind the centre console which are very handy.
The Relay
Pin 30 is the permanent power supply from the battery. Easiest way to get this is by tapping into the engine fusebox on the right side of the engine bay, using an inline 40A fuse, and running it through the big rubber grommet that goes into the cabin, about half way down the engine bay on the right side. If you have run an amplifier into the car, chances are this will be the grommet you’ve used to run the main feed. Run this power wire directly into the relay.
Pin 87 provides the power line to go to the switches. This power wire splits into two wires; one each going directly to the switch power wire, fuses with a 20A fuse on each wire.
Pin 85 goes directly to ground
Pin 86 is the feed from the ignition, so you can only use the windows when the ignition is on. This can easily be connected to the main feed if you wish, using a blade connector or similar, makes no difference, except you are able to use them when the ignition is on or off.
Wiring things through
The switches and all the wires coming off them should run down the centre console, and then lift the carpet up at the back and in the foot wells and run the wires through neatly, possibly taping them to the floor to keep it neat.
Now everything should work. If it doesn’t, either you’ve missed a ground somewhere, or its not grounded properly, or one of the connections has come loose somewhere along the line. Pop the switches into place, tuck all the wires away neatly and bound the group of wires together with tape to tidy things up, mount the relay somewhere (there is supposedly a bracket behind the bonnet pull somewhere, but there wasn’t on mine) and enjoy your new electric windows.
Please note, the wiring is a little different if you want to install the drivers or passengers side ECU for the one touch down function. There is a guide on here by Technozen for installing that into the main wiring.
Lastly, sorry for the lack of pictures but to be honest everything makes sense once you have it in front of you.
Een mgb verliest geen olie hij markeert alleen zijn territorium.
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nl_joker_nl
Ja ik heb idd ook een aantal van dit soort verhalen bekeken, helaas ben ik niet zo goed met elektriciteit en dergelijke dus is dit voor mij niet echt een optie om zelf te doen
voordat ik hier aan begon had ik op internet alleen maar goede verhalen gehoord dat het geen probleem was enzo, en dat het even aansluiten was en gaan.. dat is nu een beetje een tegenvaller, moet nog ff kijken wat ik ga doen.. Heb nog steeds de hoop dat het goed gaat komen.
voordat ik hier aan begon had ik op internet alleen maar goede verhalen gehoord dat het geen probleem was enzo, en dat het even aansluiten was en gaan.. dat is nu een beetje een tegenvaller, moet nog ff kijken wat ik ga doen.. Heb nog steeds de hoop dat het goed gaat komen.
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FMB
